Fresh Pasta Without a Machine

Process flour, eggs and yolks, and oil in food processor until mixture forms cohesive dough that feels soft and is barely tacky to touch, about 45 seconds. (If dough sticks to fingers, add up to ¼ cup flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until barely tacky. If dough doesn’t become cohesive, add up to 1 tablespoon water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until it just comes together; process 30 seconds longer.)

Transfer dough to clean surface and knead by hand to form smooth, uniform ball, 1 to 2 minutes. Shape dough into 6-inch-long cylinder. Wrap with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature to rest for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours.

Cut cylinder crosswise into 6 equal pieces. Working with 1 piece of dough (rewrap remaining dough), dust both sides with flour, place cut side down on clean counter, and press into 3-inch square. Using heavy rolling pin, roll into 6-inch square. Dust both sides of dough lightly with flour.

FOR STRAND PASTA: Starting at center of square, roll dough away from you in 1 motion. Return rolling pin to center of dough and roll toward you in 1 motion. Repeat steps of rolling until dough sticks to counter and measures roughly 12 inches long. Lightly dust both sides of dough with flour and continue rolling dough until it measures roughly 20 inches long and 6 inches wide, lifting dough frequently to release it from counter. (You should be able to easily see outline of your fingers through dough.) If dough firmly sticks to counter and wrinkles when rolled out, dust dough lightly with flour. Transfer pasta sheet to dish towel and let sit, uncovered, until firm around edges, about 15 minutes; meanwhile, roll out remaining dough. Starting with 1 short end, gently fold pasta sheet at 2-inch intervals until sheet has been folded into flat, rectangular roll. With sharp chef’s knife, slice crosswise into 3/16-inch-wide noodles. Use fingers to unfurl pasta and transfer to baking sheet. Repeat folding and cutting remaining sheets of dough. Cook noodles within 1 hour.

FOR GARGANELLI: Starting at center of square, roll dough away from you in 1 motion. Roll dough to 12 by 6 inches, rolling from center of dough 1 way at a time, then dust with flour. Continue rolling dough to 15 inches long by 6 inches wide, lifting it frequently to release it from counter. If dough firmly sticks to counter and wrinkles when rolled out, dust dough lightly with flour. Transfer pasta sheet to dish towel and let sit, uncovered, until firm around edges, about 15 minutes; meanwhile, roll out remaining dough. Using sharp knife or pizza cutter, cut 1 air-dried pasta sheet into 1½-inch squares; discard scraps. Lay 1 square of pasta diagonally on counter or, to create ridges in pasta, on top of garganelli or gnocchi board, inverted fork, or wire rack. Wrap 1 corner of pasta square around ⅜-inch dowel (or pencil), and with gentle pressure roll away from you until pasta is completely wrapped around dowel and seam is sealed. Slide shaped pasta off dowel onto lightly floured rimmed baking sheet and repeat with remaining pasta squares and sheets.

Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven. Add salt and pasta and cook until tender but still al dente, about 3 minutes. If tossing pasta with sauce, reserve 1 cup pasta cooking water to adjust consistency. Drain pasta and toss with sauce, if using, adjusting consistency with reserved cooking water as needed. Serve immediately.

TO MAKE AHEAD: Follow recipe through step 4, transfer baking sheet of pasta to freezer, and freeze until pasta is firm. Transfer to zipper-lock bag and store for up to 2 weeks. Cook frozen pasta straight from freezer as directed in step 5.