Pasta alla Gricia (Rigatoni with Pancetta and Pecorino Romano) for Two

Slice each round of pancetta into rectangular pieces that measure about ½ inch by 1 inch.

Heat pancetta and oil in large saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until fat is rendered and pancetta is deep golden brown but still has slight pinkish hue, 8 to 10 minutes, adjusting heat as necessary to keep pancetta from browning too quickly. Using slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to bowl; set aside. Pour fat from saucepan into liquid measuring cup (you should have about ¼ cup fat; discard any extra). Return fat to saucepan.

While pancetta cooks, set colander in large bowl. Bring 6 cups water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain pasta in prepared colander, reserving cooking water.

Add pepper and 1 cup reserved cooking water to saucepan with fat and bring to boil over high heat. Boil mixture rapidly, scraping up any browned bits, until emulsified and reduced to 3/4 cup, 3 to 5 minutes. (If you've reduced it too far, add more reserved cooking water to equal 3/4 cup.)

Reduce heat to low, add pasta and pancetta, and stir to evenly coat. Add Pecorino and stir until cheese is melted and sauce is slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Off heat, adjust sauce consistency with remaining reserved cooking water as needed. Transfer pasta to platter and serve immediately, passing extra pepper and extra Pecorino separately.