Steak Fries

Place the cut fries in a large bowl, cover with cold water by at least 1 inch, and then cover with ice cubes. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes or up to 3 days.

In a 5-quart pot or Dutch oven fitted with a clip-on candy thermometer, or in a large electric fryer, heat the oil over medium-low heat to 325 degrees. (The oil will bubble up when you add fries, so be sure you have at least 3 inches of room at the top of the pot.)

Pour off the ice and water, quickly the wrap potatoes in a clean kitchen towel, and thoroughly pat them dry. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the fries, one handful at a time, to the hot oil. Fry, stirring with a Chinese skimmer or large-holed slotted spoon, until the potatoes are limp and soft and have turned from white to gold, about 10 minutes. (The oil temperature will drop 50 to 60 degrees during this frying.) Use a skimmer or slotted spoon to transfer the fries to a triple thickness of paper towels to drain; let rest at least 10 minutes. (The fries can stand at room temperature up to 2 hours or be wrapped in paper towels, sealed in a zipper-lock bag, and frozen up to 1 month.)

When ready to serve the fries, reheat the oil to 350 degrees. Using the paper towels as a funnel, pour the potatoes into the hot oil. Discard the paper towels and line a wire rack with another triple thickness of paper towels. Fry the potatoes, stirring fairly constantly, until medium brown and puffed, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to the paper towel-lined rack to drain. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Technique: Cutting Potatoes for Steak Fries

Cut each potato in half lengthwise. Place the potato half flat-side down and cut into thirds lengthwise.

Cut each piece of potato in half lengthwise to yield 12 wedges that measure about 3/4 inch across on the skin side.