No midcentury diet book was complete without mention of cottage cheese, a soft, lumpy fresh cheese with slightly tangy flavor. Consumption peaked in the early 1970s, when the average American ate 5 pounds a year. But like Jane Fonda, cottage cheese is so much more than a bygone health fad. And it’s having a resurgence in popularity. New products are on the market, some touting the cheese’s protein levels and the “live and active cultures” that purportedly promote gut health.
Cottage cheese is a tasty snack when eaten plain, and it’s also a useful ingredient: In the test kitchen we use it in baked pastas because it stays creamy, and we add it to pizzas, dips, and desserts, where it contributes moisture and richness. But what exactly is cottage cheese, and does it matter which product you buy?