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Molasses

Terms like "mild," "full," and "robust" are meaningless when it comes to molasses. The only surefire way to know what we were getting was to taste them.

Published Nov. 1, 2011. Appears in America's Test Kitchen TV Season 22: Summer Decadence
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WinnerBrer Rabbit All Natural Unsulphured Molasses Mild Flavor

This assertive, first-boil molasses was rated highest for strength of molasses flavor, with tasters calling it “bitter in a good way” and “acidic” yet “balanced.” Its “strong and raisin-y” taste was “very straightforward,” and the “pleasantly bitter bite” and “deep, caramelized flavor” that was noticed when tasted plain struck a “sweet-spicy” balance when baked in cookies.
Price at Time of Testing: $4.27 for 12 oz
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This assertive, first-boil molasses was rated highest for strength of molasses flavor, with tasters calling it “bitter in a good way” and “acidic” yet “balanced.” Its “strong and raisin-y” taste was “very straightforward,” and the “pleasantly bitter bite” and “deep, caramelized flavor” that was noticed when tasted plain struck a “sweet-spicy” balance when baked in cookies.
Price at Time of Testing: $4.27 for 12 oz
Learn More
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What You Need to Know

Molasses is made by boiling the juice of sugarcane or sugar beets and then extracting sugar crystals through centrifuge. More stages of boiling (and extraction) may follow to produce an increasingly intense flavor. A first boil typically corresponds to mild or “Barbados” molasses; a second boil produces a style sometimes called “full”; and a third creates blackstrap, the most assertive and bitter molasses. We ruled out blackstrap for its overpowering flavor (based on previous tastings) and sampled five national brands in other styles, plain and in our Gingersnaps recipe. (We tasted only unsulfured versions.)

The first thing we discovered is that descriptive names on labels—including “mild,” “original,” “full,” and “robust”—are not a reliable indicator of how the molasses tastes. A brand labeled “mild” rated among the strongest for flavor. But we also found that when it comes to baking, it doesn’t matter what molasses you buy (as long as it’s not blackstrap). When sampled straight, some brands tasted “burnt” or “like coffee grounds,” but baking mellowed out their differences; all five brands were equally acceptable in cookies. Tasted plain, one molasses was our favorite for its “caramelized,” “spicy” taste.

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Everything We Tested

Recommended

WinnerBrer Rabbit All Natural Unsulphured Molasses Mild Flavor

This assertive, first-boil molasses was rated highest for strength of molasses flavor, with tasters calling it “bitter in a good way” and “acidic” yet “balanced.” Its “strong and raisin-y” taste was “very straightforward,” and the “pleasantly bitter bite” and “deep, caramelized flavor” that was noticed when tasted plain struck a “sweet-spicy” balance when baked in cookies.
Price at Time of Testing: $4.27 for 12 oz
This assertive, first-boil molasses was rated highest for strength of molasses flavor, with tasters calling it “bitter in a good way” and “acidic” yet “balanced.” Its “strong and raisin-y” taste was “very straightforward,” and the “pleasantly bitter bite” and “deep, caramelized flavor” that was noticed when tasted plain struck a “sweet-spicy” balance when baked in cookies.
Price at Time of Testing: $4.27 for 12 oz

Plantation Barbados Unsulphured Molasses

This first-boil molasses rated sweetest in the plain tasting. Tasters picked up notes of “brown sugar,” “honey,” and “plum.” They also dubbed this molasses “lighter,” with a “politely abrupt finish” that “doesn’t hit me like a punch in the face.”
Price at Time of Testing: $7.18 for 15 oz
This first-boil molasses rated sweetest in the plain tasting. Tasters picked up notes of “brown sugar,” “honey,” and “plum.” They also dubbed this molasses “lighter,” with a “politely abrupt finish” that “doesn’t hit me like a punch in the face.”
Price at Time of Testing: $7.18 for 15 oz

Grandma’s Molasses Unsulphured Original

This “fruity” and “cognac-like” molasses is made from unprocessed cane juice, meaning that it’s packaged even before the first-boil stage, without any sugar extracted. It was “balanced,” without the harshness of other brands. Tasters called it “prune-like” and “sweeter,” with a “mulled apple cider” and “warm spice” flavor.
Price at Time of Testing: $2.89 for 12 oz
This “fruity” and “cognac-like” molasses is made from unprocessed cane juice, meaning that it’s packaged even before the first-boil stage, without any sugar extracted. It was “balanced,” without the harshness of other brands. Tasters called it “prune-like” and “sweeter,” with a “mulled apple cider” and “warm spice” flavor.
Price at Time of Testing: $2.89 for 12 oz

Grandma’s Molasses Unsulphured Robust

This first-boil molasses had a “dark and smoky” flavor that reminded our tasters of “old-fashioned candy,” “Cracker Jack,” and “burnt Fig Newton filling.” A “hint of smokiness” was noted, with a “spicy, slightly sulfurous aftertaste.”
Price at Time of Testing: $4.27 for 12 oz
This first-boil molasses had a “dark and smoky” flavor that reminded our tasters of “old-fashioned candy,” “Cracker Jack,” and “burnt Fig Newton filling.” A “hint of smokiness” was noted, with a “spicy, slightly sulfurous aftertaste.”
Price at Time of Testing: $4.27 for 12 oz

Recommended with reservations

Brer Rabbit All Natural Unsulphured Molasses Full Flavor

This molasses, which had an overpowering flavor described as “toffee-like,” is a second-boil product, which may explain its acrid bitterness when sampled straight. Tasters likened it to “burnt rubber” and “coffee grounds.” Its full flavor fared better in cookies, where it was deemed “deep and pleasantly sweet” as well as “complex.”
Price at Time of Testing: $3.57 for 12 oz
This molasses, which had an overpowering flavor described as “toffee-like,” is a second-boil product, which may explain its acrid bitterness when sampled straight. Tasters likened it to “burnt rubber” and “coffee grounds.” Its full flavor fared better in cookies, where it was deemed “deep and pleasantly sweet” as well as “complex.”
Price at Time of Testing: $3.57 for 12 oz

*All products reviewed by America’s Test Kitchen are independently chosen, researched, and reviewed by our editors. We buy products for testing at retail locations and do not accept unsolicited samples for testing. We list suggested sources for recommended products as a convenience to our readers but do not endorse specific retailers. When you choose to purchase our editorial recommendations from the links we provide, we may earn an affiliate commission. Prices are subject to change.

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